|
Taking Us Back In Time
Linework began in the mid 1800’s with the invention of the telegraph. The early linemen would have to string wire on rough poles or even on trees to be able to get the cable from one location to another. In 1879 Thomas Edison invented the Light Bulb. This led him to the invention of D.C. Current, which in 1882 energized New York City with electric power. Then in 1886 George Westinghouse and Nicola Tester invented A.C. Current. This was the breakthrough that the country had been waiting for.
People were coming from all across the country to become linemen, for this was a new way of life. Tools to do this job were scarce. The linemen themselves would make their own tools or get a blacksmith to make or forge them. In the 1800’s, the Donnally Company started manufacturers the first machined climbing tools. Now there are several manufactures that make these tools. Today, line-workers all over the world work at their profession using these tools.
Body Belt
|
• D-rings
• Tool loops
• Belt and buckle
• Cushion section
• Tool pouch attachment
• Tape holder
• Rings to attach gut strap, suspenders, or back-saver
Body belts come in three different types; non-floating, semi floating, and/or full floating. Full floating is the overall choice of most line-workers because of the mobility and flexibility.
The pad of the body belt is the part of the belt that lies between the D-rings. Body belts are sized according to thier D-ring lengths, example; (D21, D22, D23, and etc.) To get this measurement, measure from the point of one hipbone, around the back to the other hipbone. This measurement should be taken two to three inches below your body’s original belt line. Refer to the photo on the following page. This length plus 2 inches will give you the proper belt size. All of these measurements should be taken over clothing and with the use of a cloth measuring tape.
Note: Most body belts are made in the U.S. Belt measurements should be in inches or centimeters to insure proper fit.
Climbing equipment should be maintained regularly and inspected before each use. If, in the course of inspection, your equipment is found to be defective, remove it from service immediately. Follow your company procedures for replacement. Take time to clean and protect your equipment. It is an investment in your well-being
.
A. Hardware - electrical burns, cracks, deformation, loose attachment points.
B. Sewing - Loose, cut, or frayed stitches
C. Leather or Nylon Material – Abraded strength member, cuts,
fraying, or chemical deterioration.
D. Rivets - Loose or bent rivets.
E. Tool Loops - Tool Holster - Elongated loops, improper tool fit, or lose attachment points.
F. Tongue - Broken stitches, elongated holes, fraying, or worn material.
Make sure your belt is kept dry and clean. If your belt gets wet, simply hang it to dry. Leather belts are best cleaned using saddle soap. Quality leather preservers such as Neatsfoot Oil and Mink Oil should be applied lightly. You should clean and treat your equipment at least 3 times a year. This will prevent the leather from getting hard and eventually cracking.
If the sewing on the belt breaks, take it to a competent
shoemaker. Make sure the shoemaker does not alter the integrity of the belt.
Metals and nylons can be cleaned with mild soap and water
solution. Never buff forged hardware, the heat will ruin the temper. Never use petroleum- based cleaners on nylon. You can make rivet repairs on your belt. Make sure the rivets are the same types as the original when you replace them.
Your body belt is your main support when working on a pole. Your belt also holds your personal tools. Adjust your belt to make it ride on your hips instead of around your waist. Your body weight is distributed around your hips instead of the small of your back. You will be more comfortable with your belt in this position.
The safety strap or positioning strap is used for support while working on a pole or structure. The strap comes with double locking snap hooks on each end of the strap. These snaps are to be placed on or into the D-rings of your body belt.
Before you ascend the pole, you need to insure that your safety strap is properly adjusted. To do this place the safety strap around the pole with the strap being at a slight angle. At this point your safety strap should be attached to your body belt with the safety snaps attached to your D-rings. Lean back in your body belt putting pressure on your safety strap. Place your feet at a slight angle toward the bottom of the pole, lay the palms of your hands flat outward against the pole, extend or straighten your arms forward. If you can do this without having to move your body forward or backwards then your safety is properly adjusted. If it is not, then adjust it prior to climbing the pole.
When free climbing, both straps should be latched in the same D-ring depending upon if you are either right- handed or left- handed. If you are right handed place both straps on the left side, making sure that the single part of the strap is on the topside of the snap that has the double portion of the strap. If you are left-handed it will be on the opposite side of your body belt.
Features
• Double Locking Straps
• Pole Straps
• Buckle
• Strap Keeper
Inspection
The estimated life with proper care and usage is 1 to 4 years.
A. Hardware - Electrical burns, cracks, deformation, loose attachment points, improper latch or spring tension on the snap.
B. Leather on Nylon Material - Extreme wear, cuts, fraying, broken
or loose stitches, chemical deterioration, or exposed red center red center material. The keeper must be in tact.
• Belt attachment point
• Tool pockets
1. Check the leather for cracks and wear.
2. Check the attachment point for wear.
Keep your tool pouch dry. This will prolong the life of the leather. If the pouch becomes wet, dry it out immediately.
Your tool pouch is used to store your personal tools. The pouch will hold your screwdriver, folding ruler, pliers and channel locks. Some tool pouches come with a snap. If you wish, you can use the snap to hang your skinning knife or speed wrench.
• If you are right-handed, the tool pouch will be attached on the
right side of your body belt. If you are left-handed, place the pouch on the left side. Attach the tool pouch to the tool pouch attachment point of your body belt.
Material Bag
• Two belt loops with “D” rings and snaps that allows you to install
and remove your material bag easily.
• Bag that allows you to store your material (nuts, washers, etc.)
while working on pole.
Inspect the bag for holes and tears.
Your material bag is normally attached to your body belt on the opposite side of the tool pouch. Attachment to your body belt will depend on the type of bag you have obtained.
• Clip
• Hanger
Note: Safety Feature - Your hook is made of plastic. The hook bends and allows the piece of equipment or material on the hook to be released if it becomes entangled.
Check the hook for cracks and wear. If the hook is cracked or worn, replace the hook.
Care
The hook is made of plastic. There is very little maintenance required.
Use
You can use your hook to keep small pieces of equipment or your tools on. It is also recommended that you carry your handline or rope on the handline carrier. The handline carrier is designed to straighten, releasing the handline or rope if it becomes entangled. This will prevent the lineman from being pulled from the pole.
Open the clip and slide it over the strip of the body belt that has the tool loops. The position of the hanger is your preference.
Note: Do not place the clip on your belt between the D-ring and the first to loop. Placing the clip too close may cause you to latch the safety strap into the Hook causing it to break away when pressure has been applied to it, resulting in a fall of the climber.
After completing this section, you will be able to assemble, inspect, and care for your new set of climbers.
Climbing poles is the most basic function of your new job. You will learn many new skills while standing on climbers. Your comfort and safety is affected by your knowledge of climbers.
Features
All climbers have common features:
• Bottom section
• Metal stirrups
• Gaff
• Bottom climber strap
• Adjustable sleeve
• Climber pad
There are basically 3 types of pads available. The type depends on the preference of the Line-worker.
| Velcro Pads - | C - Type Pads | L - Type Pads |
 |
 |
 |
All of the pads are placed on the top of the climber, which allows you to lock and secure your climber to your legs.
Bottom Section
This part of the unit contains the metal stirrup and gaff.
• Metal Stirrup
• Gaff
The top steel section of the climbers has several holes punched in it so as to be able to adjust the length of the hooks down depending on the Line-worker.
The sharp spike the lineman drives into the pole. This part supports you as you climb and work up a pole.
They can be either a fixed gaff or a replaceable gaff.
 |
|||
|
|||
Assembly
The illustration below shows the complete assembled pair of climbers on a line-worker.
The bottom section of the climbers are marked “R” or “L”. “R” is for right foot and “L” is for the left.
Place the arch of your foot into the stirrup. The gaff must be on the inside of the foot. Slide the adjustable sleeve over the bottom section. Adjust the sleeve approximately 2 to 3 fingers below the knee joint. Place two screws into aligned holes and tighten.
The next step is to install the climber pad. The climber pad is installed with the leather loops facing out. Slide the two loops of the climber pad over the adjustable sleeves. Push the pad down until the steel loop of the sleeve is in line with the three loops on top of the pad. When properly installed, one loop at the top of the pad will be behind the sleeve and two loops will be in front of the sleeve. The padded part of the climber pad will now fit over the front of your leg.
Next, thread the top climber strap through the first loop of the pad. Then thread it through the steel loop and the last two loops of the climber pad. The buckle and strap end are at the back of your leg and out of the way when climbing.
When the climbers are properly adjusted, the wearer should feel comfortable, and trouser legs should be gathered tautly around the inside of his leg. If the leg iron is worn underneath the trouser leg, the trouser legs must be short and not cuffed to prevent gaffs from being caught in them. (See the following illustration below.)
Before each use, carefully inspect the complete system for signs of wear or deterioration, or evidence of impact loading.
Visually inspect for loose threads, pulled rivets, cuts, abrasions, or other evidence of chemical or physical deterioration that may have weakened the material or assembly. 2. Inspect hardware for malfunctions or cracks. Check all hardware, including rivets and buckles. 3. Destroy and replace all worn or damaged equipment. Immediately destroy and replace any component, which does not pass inspection.WARNING: Inspect leather straps for any deterioration before each use; this is, cracking, wearing thin, tearing, weakening, or chemical attack. Maintain with Neat’s foot oil or equivalent. Remove from service, and destroy and discard strap if it does not pass inspection.
PROCEDURES FOR INSPECTING CLIMBERS AND GAFFS
Carefully inspect the entire climber and gaff before each use. 1. Check straps and pads. Make sure straps and pad are free of tears, burns, broken stitches, or excessive wear. Carefully check leather for cracking, wearing thin, tearing, weakening, chemical attack, or other signs of deterioration.
5. Check gaff width with Klein Gaff Gauge.
For pole gaffs only, insert gaff as far as possible through the large square opening in the gage marked “W” (See the below illustration). Make sure the top ridge is flush against the gauge base. The point should fall within the limits formed by the last line and the edge of the gage as shown. If it does, the gaff is the proper width, as measured approximately 1” (25.4 mm) from the point.
For pole and tree gaffs, insert gaff as far as possible through small opening in the gauge marked “W” (See the below illustration). Make sure the top ridge is flush against the gauge base. The point should fall within the center two lines as shown. If it does, the gaff is the proper thickness, as measured approximately ½” (12.7 mm) from the point.
6. Check gaff profile/contour with Klein Gaff Gauge.
For pole and tree gaffs, place the side of the gaff along the front edge of the gage with the gaff point resting in the notch. The point should follow the configuration of the gauge to assure the proper “rounding off” of the tip within ¼’ (6.4 mm) of the point. (See the below illustration)
Minimum safe length for a pole-climbing gaff is 1-7/16” (37.5 mm), measured on the underside of gaff. Minimum safe length for a tree-climbing gaff is the greater of the following: (a) 2-1/4” (57 mm), measured on the underside of the gaff, or (b) long enough to penetrate the core of the tree. Before climbing, always test the penetration of tree gaffs at the base of the tree to be sure gaffs extend through the bark and properly penetrate the wood.
7. Check gaff sharpness with the “plane test”.
Step 1: Place climber with gaff pointing downward and upper strap look resting against a horizontal board or pole. Hold the leg iron parallel to the wood surface, with the stirrup vertical. Push the climber horizontally in the direction of the gaff without any downward pressure except the weight of the climber (See the below illustration).
Step 2: The gaff is properly sharpened if it buries itself in the wood within a few inches of its starting position and can no longer be moved forward (See the below illustration).
The gaff is not properly sharpened if it merely slips, slides, or plows a shallow groove in the wood (See the below illustration).
In this case, either replace the gaff following the “Gaff Assembly and Ordering Instructions” or resharpen the gaff following the “Gaff Sharpening Instructions”, both contained in the book. A resharpened gaff must be tested for proper width, thickness, and point profile, and it must also pass the “plane test” before use.
The “plane test” reveals possible penetration problems not noticeable to the naked eye. In the below illustration shows how a properly sharpened gaff cuts its way into the pole for proper support.
In the following illustration it shows how improperly sharpened gaffs can “cut-out”.
8. Destroy and replace all worn or damaged OPE equipment.
If evidence of excessive wear, deterioration, or mechanical malfunction is observed, replace the equipment immediately. Never work with worn or damaged OPE equipment. Using damaged or worn equipment can cause serious injury or death.9. The inspector is the most important part of the inspection.
Check all equipment thoroughly and follow all safety procedures and guidelines. Do not take any shortcuts.WARNING: OSHA specifies that all employers covered by the Occupational Safety and Health Act are responsible for inspecting and maintaining all tools and equipment used by employees – whether owned by the employees or by the company. Personal-protective equipment should be inspected before each use and removed from service if signs of wear or damage are found.
WARNING: Should any unusual conditions be noted during inspection that are not specified here, do not use the suspect equipment until an individual considered by OSHA to be qualified makes a decision on its usability.
Wash nylon only in warm water and mild detergent. Avoid harsh chemical agents such as degreasing compounds, turpentine, paint thinner, gasoline, and other solvents. Allow nylon objects to dry naturally. Do not use heat to speed up the process.
2. Leather componentsMaintain all leather with Neat’s-foot oil or equivalent to prolong life. Clean with saddle soap or other mild soap. Allow leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to speed up the process.
3. Leg iron, steel sleeve, stirrup, gaff, and other metal parts.
A. Make sure all metal parts are clean and free of foreign material.
B. Wipe metal parts dry with a clean cloth.
C. Maintain or replace gaffs as explained in this booklet to preserve proper width, thickness, point profile, and sharpness.
4. Re-inspect all equipment after maintenance.
It is necessary to re-inspect the equipment after all maintenance procedures to determine if the maintenance was done properly and effectively.
Gaff Sharpening Instructions
Clean and maintain equipment as recommended.
Instructions for Sharpening Gaffs On Climbers
Always use a fine tooth file. Never grind on a wheel, as you likely to set up heat, which will spoil the temper of the gaff and make it dangerous to use. Set climber in smooth jaw vice with the gaff as shown in below illustration so that you can file from heel to point of gaff.
At a distance of 1/16 inch (1.59 mm) back from the point, you should have a width of approximately 3/32 inch (2.38 mm) measured on the underside of the gaff (see below illustration).
How to Check for Proper Sharpness of Gaffs on Climbers By Means of the “Plane Test”
Place climber with point of gaff pointing downward and upper strap loop resting against a wood surface. (Any convenient board will do or you can use a pole.) Hold the leg iron with the stirrup vertical and the leg iron parallel with the wood surface. Now push the climber horizontally along the surface in the direction of the gaff with the point of the gaff still in contact with the wood - as you would a carpenter’s plane. Use no downward pressure except the weight of the climber as illustrated below.
Note:
The point of the gaff should function as a chisel, cutting its way into a pole. The chisel point penetrates the pole easier and deeper with less effort.
1. Long cuff leather gloves are recommended to protect the hands and forearms from cuts, abrasions, and splinters associated with climbing. Your company policy may require you to wear rubber gloves with leather protectors from ground to ground when climbing a pole that has any energized lines attached to it.
2. Long sleeve shirts with sleeves rolled down, cuffs buttoned, are also required to protect arms against the friction burns and bruising if the need arises to grab the pole in case a fall occurs.
3. Pants with long legs, loose enough so to be able to move freely while climbing.
4. Boots with heavy soles under the arch of the foot should be worn to prevent serious foot injury. The arch support helps distribute the pressure of the climber on the bottom of the foot. Boots also come in different heights, with or without steel-toes; this depends on your company policy and your preference.
5. OSHA approved hard-hats and safety glasses should also be worn.
Inspecting the Pole
You should first check the pole by using the sound test method. OSHA mandates this method. Strike the pole with a hammer from the ground line to as high as one can reach, then move around the entire circumference of the pole.
There are 3 things to look for when sound testing:
• A dull sound
• Lack of recoil in the hammer.
• Shell Crack
Inspecting Pole Below Ground Surface
Another method for checking a bad pole is to do a Bore Test. You do this by removing some of the dirt from around the pole (approximately 6” to 12”), drill a hole or drive a screwdriver in the pole at the base below dirt level on a 45-degree angle. If the screwdriver drives easily or goes through with ease, then there is decay present and precaution should be taken before climbing. If no decay is present, then plug the hole if drilled.
Some of the poles have been in the ground for many years and may not be suitable for climbing, due to decay.
You should also inspect pole for woodpecker holes, open cracks or lightning damage, nails, tacks and knots that could cause the climber to cut out when climbing. Also while inspecting the pole always be aware of insect in the area.
You should also inspect for insects
Checking the Birthmark
Checking the depth of the pole can be determined by checking the birthmark. Measuring from the ground line to the birthmark will tell the depth of the pole.
You need to also check the pole for strain, to see if the pole is secure enough before you climb. Any change that that you may make may cause you to change the stress on the pole. Make sure it is guyed properly.
Climbing Wood Poles
In an earlier objective, you were taught how to inspect your belt and climbers. At that time, you were also taught how to select equipment that fit properly. Climbing is a basic and important skill of a line-worker. Climbing to a line-worker is what skating is to a professional hockey player-it takes practice to keep in the best of shape. Because of the requirements to climb any time of the day or night and in all kinds of weather conditions, the belt, the climbers and the worker must be in the very best condition.
An apprentice line-worker may have been told at some point or another ” climbing poles safely is a matter of common since.”
Climbing
There are two parts to climbing:
1. The first part is the motion or movement on the pole. This is
accomplished by the use of the legs and climber.
2. The other part is the balance or attachment to the pole, which is
accomplished by the belt, pole strap, and hands.
Hazards
Recognizing and avoiding the hazards associated with climbing and working on a wood pole may appear to be a matter of ordinary sense to an experienced line-worker, but how can it be expected that a apprentice line-worker automatically become aware of all the hazards inherent in such an unfamiliar environment?
Hazards of climbing wood poles
1. Icy poles
2. Leaning poles
3. Crooked poles
4. Flipping the safety strap over the top of the pole.
5. Engaging the safety snaps into or onto something other than the D-rings of the safety belt.
6. Grabbing hold of loose hardware
Icy Poles
Poles coated with ice, snow, or frost should be climbed using extreme care. Ice or snow in most cases covers only half of the pole surface, due to the prevailing winds. While climbing, the gaffs are applied to the ice or snow side of the pole, and the safety strap placed on the bare wood side, which offers a safer gripping surface. The use of 2 safety straps may be preferred.
Leaning Poles
When you walk up to the pole you are about to climb, stop and look at the way the pole is leaning. All poles are not set straight up in the air; some may be set having an angle or leaning in one direction or the other. This may have been done intentionally or by some other means such as storm damage (wind), wire tension.
When the safety strap is used to assist while climbing, the worker must be aware that the characteristic action of flipping the safety strap with each step, and applying the body weight into it, results in a non- rhythmic motion causing the line conductors to sway. Critical swaying will reduce clearances, causing the conductors to “short-circuit”. To reduce pole motion to a minimum, climbing is performed either on the face or back of the pole so that the bending forces at the ground line are absorbed line-wise by the guying effect of the line conductors.
Crooked Poles
All poles are not the same when they come from the factory. You will see that when the poles get taller they are more prone to not be straight. The pole may have been straight to start with but may have been improperly guyed causing the pole to bend or bow. If you have to climb this type of pole then you need to take a little extra time in climbing. Climbing a crooked pole also is made easier by climbing on the high side or the upward part of the pole where the bow is. The bow is going to change your position, making your arms and legs approach distance varied.
Using Loose Hardware for a Hand-Hold
Never use any of the pole material as a means to assist you when you are climbing up or down the pole. If you are not paying attention or get distracted you may come in contact with an energized source. Also, the material may not have been tightened and could come loose from the pole causing you to slip and fall.
Ascending Wood Poles
You have already set your safety and are ready to ascend the pole. Remember that the pole is going to change in size as you climb up. You may have to re-adjust your safety when you reach your workstation.
Whenever possible plan a route up the pole that will allow climbing the high side or (upward side), of a leaning pole.
While on the ground plan your route, look over the pole.
Determine how to climb over cross-arms, or around obstructions, where to apply the safety strap, and what final position will be assumed on the pole.
When climbing over or around obstructions such as the photos shown above you may need to use two positioning straps. Using this method the climber will always be safety off at any point during the climb.
Once you have reached that position and have reset your safety, lean back in your belt so to put strain on your safety strap. While working on the pole you may have to be in one position for a long period of time. Place one foot slightly above the other to take the weight off of one leg. This will let you rest your leg; as the leg with the weight on it becomes fatigued, change the weight to the other leg.
Movement on the Pole
When climbing up or down the pole, remember to take short steps, about 6 to 8 inches in length. It will be less tiring taking short steps than taking long steps. Also, in the event that you happen to cut out, it will be easier for you to regain control and set your gaff back into the pole. Some poles are harder than others making it difficult for you set your gaffs deep enough. If this is the case, then you will have to put more force down on your gaffs. You will know this after taking only a few steps. Remember, if the pole is soft and you put excessive force on your gaff, the harder it will be to pull out of the pole. Again, after climbing for any length of time, all excess force soon adds up to fatigue.
The leg or foot should be angled slightly to place the gaff in the proper position. After a step is taken, lock the knee before taking the next step. Locking the knee will keep the strain on the legs to a minimum. By moving in this fashion, you will be able to climb to the work location. One thing you need to remember is to always climb using a quarter of the pole, using more or less will not let you set your gaffs properly, making it easier for you to cut out.
Keep the feet a comfortable distance apart, normally a distance of about 4 to 6 inches. Aim gaffs at the heart, or centerline, of the pole. Do not jab the pole. Allow your body weight to set the climber gaffs into the pole. Remember to keep your knees turned slightly outward, and use comfortable steps.
The climber gaffs should always be directed toward the ”center” or “heart” of the pole in the front quarters.
The heels of the hands go on the back quarters with the wrists away from the pole.
Too far apart
When climbing a pole raise your right hand up with your right leg and your left hand up when you raise your left leg. Repeat these steps until you have completed the climb. Use your legs to climb and lift your body up; do not pull up with your arms.
When ascending the pole look straight ahead or in the upward position. Do not look at your feet, unless you are moving over an obstacle. The reason for looking up is so that you can see what you may or may not be climbing into.
Remember to look straight ahead or slightly up
Once you are at the work height, it will be necessary to establish a stable position to prevent you from pivoting back and forth on your climbers. Keeping your feet at slightly different heights does this.
Remember:
Always have a firm grip one the pole with one hand when Belting-In or Un-Belting.
The most dangerous period in climbing is during the Belting-IN or UN-Belting process. It is the time when the worker’s attention is diverted to disengaging and engaging the safety snap into theD-ring.
Both gaffs must be firmly engaged in solid wood during this belting-In and UN-Belting period. It is a good habit to get into.
After you have reached your working position, grip your double locking snap with one hand. Remove D-Ring position of the safety belt. Place strap around the center of pole, grasp positioning strap with opposite hand and take strap around pole, place double locking snap in opposite D-Ring.
Always use single portion of the strap when you are re-positioning on pole.
When belting on, look at the safety latch and D-ring, listen for the snap, and tug on the safety before sitting back in the belt. There have been several accidents recorded throughout the U.S. and Canada where a line-worker has fallen because they have snapped there safety onto something other than there D-ring, (pliers, hand line carrier, etc.) Look, Listen and Tug.
Note: Before Un-belting, Always Reset Your Gaffs
 |
 |
| Step One | Step Two |
 |
 |
| Step Three | Step Four |
Moving Around the Pole
If you need to rotate around the pole, place the foot that is in the direction that you need to rotate slightly lower than the other, shift your weight to the higher leg and lift yourself up, the lower leg should or gaff should come out of the pole, move slightly in the direction you intend to go and drop on the lower leg. Be sure to lock the lower leg before moving around the pole. Repeat until you have reached your intended position. Try to get in the most comfortable position as possible. Beware of your surroundings, (energized primary, secondary, etc).
If your work is on the left side rotate in you belt, shift your safety and weight to the left, this will let you reach your work, do the opposite if your work is in the other direction.
NOTE:
A good rule of thumb to remember is: Leading Leg Low
To rotate around the pole, pull one gaff out of the pole and drop it down 6 to 8 inches, or a comfortable step, and around and away from the other foot.
Note: Look at where you want to place your gaff, lock your knee, aim it, and drop.
When two workers are required to work on the same pole, the second must not begin to climb until the first is in position. Extreme care shall be taken when working above or climbing past another worker.
Workers shall not touch or climb any pole structure that is in direct contact with a live conductor on potential in excess of 300 volts, phase to ground.
Belted Climbing/Hitch Hiking:
One approved method for climbing a pole requires that both hands be placed on the belt. While ascending the pole, your weight shifts from leg to leg. As you are going up the pole, lean forward slightly to remove the tension from the pole strap. This will allow you to move the pole strap higher. You will develop a rhythm as you become more skillful at climbing. For example, you might take two steps, then move your strap. Keep tension on the belt all the time, except when moving your strap. This method is called Hitchhiking or Belted Climbing; it may also be company policy to climb using this method.
Working as a lineworker not only involves climbing but also requires you to know how to do the work after you have reached your work position. A lot of work involves having to position yourself while working in climbing equipment. To accomplish this task you must rotate in your belt and safety strap.
Place the leg that is closest to the work being performed in the lower position with your knee locked.
Rotate in your belt and rotate your positioning strap toward the work being performed. The final position should be with your body parallel to your work.
The opposite leg may be placed behind the pole using the foot to help stabilize you while working from the position.